Saw Blade

A: "TPI" stands for Teeth Per Inch. It is a critical specification for saw blades, especially for handsaws and bandsaws. A low TPI (fewer teeth) results in faster, rougher cuts, which is ideal for ripping wood. A high TPI (more teeth) leads to slower, smoother cuts, which is best for fine finishing work and crosscutting.

A: A ripping blade is designed for cutting with the wood grain, featuring fewer teeth with larger gullets to clear out wood chips quickly. A crosscutting blade is designed for cutting across the wood grain and has more teeth with a special geometry to prevent tear-out and provide a cleaner edge.

A: Kerf refers to the width of the cut that the saw blade makes. Blades come in different kerf thicknesses, typically either full kerf or thin kerf. Full kerf blades are more durable and stable, while thin kerf blades remove less material, making them ideal for lower-powered saws or when conserving expensive wood.

A: To clean a saw blade, first, disconnect the saw from power. Use a soft brush (like an old toothbrush) and a blade cleaning solution, such as a specialty cleaner, citrus-based degreaser, or mild detergent. Soak the blade for a short time to loosen any resin and pitch buildup, then scrub, rinse thoroughly, and dry completely to prevent rust.

A: For cutting plywood, especially high-end furniture-grade plywood, a blade with a high tooth count (e.g., 80 teeth) and an Alternate Top Bevel (ATB) tooth geometry is best. This provides a very clean cut with minimal tear-out on the face veneers.

A: Jigsaw blades come in various types distinguished by their shank style and tooth configuration. Common types include blades for wood, metal, and ceramic, as well as specialized blades for intricate scroll cutting. The two main shank types are U-shank and T-shank, and it's essential to match the blade shank to your jigsaw.